The Daily Telegraph
William Sitwell was disconcerted by the 80s soundtrack, Whitney Houston’s voice dredging up traumatic memories, at this semi-industrial-chic Harborne restaurant, and by a multitude of dishes arriving simultaneously – although friendly service and a “modernised, pared-down version” of the traditional Italian culinary repertoire cheered him up.
Not every dish hit the spot: there was too much rocket; burrata was confusingly over-decorated; the pricey ‘wild red prawns’ were “without any remarkable discernment of high-quality prawniness”; lamb livers were a let-down, “too much grey, not enough pink”; and the dark chocolate sorbet was unfortunate proof that such a thing is inevitably rich and dark and watery.
On the credit side, the pastas were decent; sea bream was “soft and lovely with a nice acidic crunch from tiny cubes of apple”; and octopus was “splendid…, lying charred and lush and tasty on a bed laden with goodies”.
William Sitwell - 2025-04-27
Drinks
Extras
