The Daily Telegraph
William Sitwell found gastronomic bliss at a “magical” countryside restaurant-with-rooms, created by a couple who “believe me, will go down in history as one of the great marital duos of British restaurants” – Ruth Leigh and her husband, chef Oli Brown, who worked together at her famous father Rowley Leigh’s Café Anglais in Bayswater.
Lunch here was “magnificent, proof that lovely stuff happens when a chef who has a handle on Italian technique bags fabulous local produce”. The result: a “blissful collision of Italy and England”.
The absolute highlight of William’s meal was chocolate mousse – “ah! Rich, soft and uncomplicated, like Mummy used to make it. The lesson of the mousse as with everything at Updown – don’t mess with greatness, instead understand how you can simply make it greater.”
William Sitwell - 2025-07-27
