The Times
Chitra Ramaswamy revisited a restaurant in the Merchant City she frequented 20 years ago, when it was the only place where as somebody of South Indian heritage she could find a good dosa (apart from her mum and dad’s kitchen, 500 miles away in London).
Dakhin is a “posh Indian, elevated and elegant” and set in an A-listed historic building, but during the week offers an “unbeatable lunch menu: for £15 you can have a thali, or a dosa and payasam (a traditional cardamom rice pudding), or three courses from the rest of the menu. Incredible.”
The dishes have barely changed over its two decades, and “they taste just as fresh and — I can think of no other word for it — authentic as they did in 2004,” Chitra concluded. “Dakhin has achieved what every restaurant is seeking in the end. To withstand the test of time.”
Chitra Ramaswamy - 2025-05-04
