The Times
Jay Rayner headed for Liverpool’s post-industrial ‘Baltic Triangle’, where locally bred chef Paul Durand, formerly of Edinburgh’s 21212 and Moor Hall in Lancashire, has returned to open a restaurant that celebrates the “unique history of the port city” – hence ‘manifest’, as in a ship’s cargo.
This intention is made manifest (sorry; not Jay’s joke) in dishes such as a ‘scouse lamb skewer’ using ingredients that would go into ‘lobscouse’, the local stew from cheap cuts of meat brought to the city by Norwegian sailors – lamb belly, pickled red cabbage, carrots, potatoes. “Does it taste of scouse? No, but it’s a charming narrative and an exceedingly good piece of multi-textured meat cookery,” Jay declared.
“The whole mission statement about reflecting the city might be a little blurred. But the cooking is completely focused and eating here is fun. That’s far more important.”
Jay Rayner - 2025-06-15
