Evening Standard
Sam Wilson found generous, appetising and already hugely popular Aghan cooking in an east London railway arch venue run by a family who were probably not banking on attracting a deluge of people within two months of opening, as prospective diners queued at the door “visibly in awe of what they’re witnessing”.
Tucking in to the celebratory national dish, a kabuli pulao, Sam marvelled at “rice cooked in broth, aromatics twinkling with lamb fat and topped with a cog of lamb neck to be stripped clean and mixed through the ribbons of carrots and plump raisins”.
A five-hour braised lamb shank is “simmered to a wimp, [and] slinks completely from the bone to end up sculling in a sauce heady with cumin, black pepper, coriander and chilli”, while sabzi is “a metric tonne of spinach wilted down with plenty of garlic and onions… mellow and chlorophyllic”.
Sam Wilson - 2026-09-13
