Evening Standard
David Ellis has revised his opinion of a live-fire grill restaurant he dismissed on his first visit three years, declaring after a couple of recent meals that its B-movie “cult” branding, dubious location down an unmarked alley, and the fearsome appearance of bearded and inked founder Andrew Clarke added up to a misleading front.
Clarke “looks like the chef for a motorcycle gang who might also knock out Pantera covers on the weekends. His are tattoos on a teddy bear: he is among the most thoughtful, considerate chefs I’ve met.” Vegans, vegetarians, pescatarians and those on gluten-free diets are well looked after here.
Yes, David’s pork chop was “gorgeous”, but it was the fermented pumpkin hummus that was “revelatory”, while Marmite bread topped with pecorino and flooded with Acme’s homemade Marmite, made using leftover yeast from the 40ft Brewery next door, was “a triumph of umami”.
David Ellis - 2025-07-06