Evening Standard
David Ellis was drawn to a Hong Kong-inspired venue in a railway arch hidden behind Wonton Charlie’s noodle bar, whose cocooning interior of “brown leather booths and red table tops, of lamps that might have come from a yacht or been stolen off set from a Fellini film” struck him as “an East End riff on The Dover”.
There are, he concedes, “far better Chinese restaurants in London”, but this was somewhere he wanted to linger.
Top menu choices included prawn toast (“Do not share, order a portion each”); a delicious dace dip, “inky as the witching hours, with its fermented funk and mild fishiness swimming up as an aftertaste”; tossed noodles with char siu; and mussels “as big as snooker balls” with black beans and garlic chives.
David Ellis - 2026-02-22
