The Daily Telegraph
William Sitwell was doubly irritated by this new steakhouse in lovely Leadenhall Market, partly because of its “gibberish” name – “was it an idea from a bad ventriloquist? Or a name shouted by the mad uncle of a friend of mine who would only mumble because he said the Nazis had bugged his teeth?” – and partly because “EC3 needs a fresh steakhouse like it needs a new IRA bomb”.
The meat (sirloin and ribeye) was “exemplary… flamed and well rested” but was accompanied by “a fruitless throw of spindly watercress” and “poor” sides of fat chips (“neither chip-shop flabby nor furiously crunchy”), watery creamed spinach and tenderstem “drenched in brown goo”.
Likewise, a starter of grilled prawns was “near perfect, the shellfish charred and juicy, but the orange sauce beneath them was unnecessary”. Luckily, sticky toffee pudding was “proper” and the wine list “sensible”.
William Sitwell - 2026-08-09
