The Sunday Times
Giles Coren was thrilled by a “wild ride through the foodie backstreets of an imaginary EuroTaiwanese wonderland”, at a self-styled ‘modern Asian restaurant’ recommended to him by an eminent but unnamed KC and fronted by an Irishman named Brendan.
The food, which included a “mental sesame prawn toast” made with brioche and parmesan (“obviously”) and a Basque-style burnt cheesecake that was “arguably the best in the world”, was certainly not for the traditionalist.
Most of it, though, was “extraordinary”, with “a couple of duds to keep everyone on their toes. El Bulli was the same. The Fat Duck too. If there’s no grit, there ain’t no pearl.”
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Giles Coren - 2025-03-30