Harden's survey result
Summary
Heston Blumenthal’s association with the park-view dining room of this fancy hotel – with its dominating Edwardian facade looming over the top of Sloane Street and nice outlook onto Hyde Park at the rear – has endured since 2011. Here, the wizard culinary strategy (the cynical would stay ‘shtick’) is a weird-and-wonderful menu dredged from ancient cookbooks by the Fat Duck chef (e.g. Buttered Crab Loaf, 1714; Chicken Cooked with Lettuces, 1670; Sambocade, 1390). “It’s an experience, but rather self-limiting by the very nature of its historically-based menu and not somewhere one would necessarily regularly return to”. Our annual diners’ poll has always suggested that the two Michelin stars it holds is rather OTT. Yes, it does have fans who consider it “tremendous” and inspired no tirades of criticism this year. But too many reports question its scary prices, or come with a sting in the tail; and the service in particular is rated as highly “indifferent”. (“Of course the food was very nice, but at these prices it should be exceptional, and it wasn’t. It’s just really very very expensive and not quite as good as it could or should be for the money they’re charging”). Expense accounters like it: “the ambience is somewhat bland, but this matters not if the emphasis is on the deal!”
Summary
“The theatrical elements are sometimes ridiculous, but it‘s very unlikely you would go away unhappy”, according to fans of culinary boffin Heston Blumenthal’s Knightsbridge dining room. Here the unique culinary approach is not his Fat Duck’s ‘molecular gastronomy’, but to re-package recipes researched from Tudor and Georgian cookbooks for the modern era. Most famous is the “sublime meat fruit” (a kind of pâté made to look like a satsuma) but recent menus include the likes of “‘Ragoo of Pigs Ear on Toast’ (c.1727)” and other concoctions. At its best “it’s a great and memorable experience” and one for which Michelin have awarded a coveted two stars. But there’s perennially a huge disconnect between this accolade and its performance in our annual diners’ poll. Even fans concede it’s “hugely expensive”; and year in year out there’s a very significant proportion who are “incredibly disappointed” with the food; or who feel “it’s trading on one or two exceptional dishes at eye-watering prices that don’t match what’s on offer”. By day in particular, this large chamber is a “beautiful” space, with Hyde Park glimpses, particularly from the tables near the windows, while by night the ambience can be more “clinical”, not helped by incidents of “charmless” or “inattentive” service. If Heston were not world famous, the tyre man might have taken away at least one star here a long time ago.
Summary
“A menu of deep historical appreciation and stimulating intellectual connections adds up to a total experience that’s much more than great fine dining”, according to fans of Heston Blumenthal’s Knightsbridge venue, whose “original takes on classic English cuisine” are, apparently, inspired by Heston’s love of historic British gastronomy and research into cookbooks from the 14th century onwards. Supporters say “the signature meat fruit and tipsy cake are so good, you can just have them every time” and that his other more recent (re)creations can also be “magnificent”. But that it’s a case of “Emperor’s new clothes” is another commonly held belief about this hotel dining room, which – in 1 in 3 reports – is said by diners to be their most “overpriced” meal of the year; and which, despite Hyde Park views from some tables, struggles to generate much in the way of atmosphere. “Seriously, a disappointment after The Fat Duck. Just not value for money!”
Summary
“Mystified as to why this place is considered special in any way…” – too often the reaction at this Heston Blumenthal-group chamber off Knightsbridge. True, it does still have some loyal fans who “have never had a bad meal” from the menu of historically inspired dishes (“I can’t agree that the meat fruit is getting boring!”); and who swoon at the “lovely view of Hyde Park”. But even some who acknowledge its plus points feel that “what was once innovative and stylish is now populated almost exclusively by Instagram wielding tourists who have yet to realise London cuisine has moved on”. And harsher critics encounter “one of the most disappointing meals ever”: “no ambience and so much money!” (“the nitro ice-cream had no flavour and felt like a gimmick”). Inexplicably, this place continues to hold two Michelin stars. Actually, it’s completely explicable when you realise that Michelin often act like slaves to celebrity…
For 34 years we've been curating reviews of the UK's most notable restaurant. In a typical year, diners submit over 50,000 reviews to create the most authoritative restaurant guide in the UK. Each year, the guide is re-written from scratch based on this survey (although for the 2021 edition, reviews are little changed from 2020 as no survey could run for that year).
Have you eaten at Dinner by Heston Blumenthal, Mandarin Oriental?
Mandarin Oriental, 66 Knightsbridge, London, SW1X 7LA
Restaurant details
Dinner by Heston Blumenthal, Mandarin Oriental Restaurant Diner Reviews
"Fantastic with great view but really expensive"
"Fantastic food and service with a view over Hyde Park not cheap but the set lunch is beter value than the full menu "
Prices
| Availability | 2 courses | 3 courses |  |
 |
 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Lunch | £65.00 |  |
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| Cost | Availability | Courses | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Menu1 | 170.00 | Dinner only |
Traditional European menu
| Pudding |
|---|
| £0.00 |
| Drinks |
|
|---|---|
| Wine per bottle | £0.00 |
| Filter Coffee | £0.00 |
| Extras |
|
|---|---|
| Service | 10.00% |
Mandarin Oriental, 66 Knightsbridge, London, SW1X 7LA
Opening hours
| Monday | 6 pm‑9 pm |
| Tuesday | 6 pm‑9 pm |
| Wednesday | 6 pm‑9 pm |
| Thursday | 6 pm‑9 pm |
| Friday | 6 pm‑9:30 pm |
| Saturday | 6 pm‑9:30 pm |
| Sunday | 6 pm‑9:30 pm |
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