The Times
Giles Coren generously offered a portmanteau of London restaurants for lunching – one at speed, one more leisurely, and one for feeling “posh”.
45 Jermyn St, part of Fortnum & Mason (where it replaced the old Fountain restaurant 10 years ago), is “somewhere for grown-ups, somewhere a bit posh, somewhere Bertie Wooster could take his Aunt Dahlia”. It’s all “shimmering parquet, red leather upholstery, assorted caviars and incredibly confident young waiters in black and white uniforms“ – and the dishes are “brilliantly done”.
Giles Coren - 2025-05-04