The Guardian
Grace Dent, a proud member of the early-rising “5am Club”, followed a heavily hyped trend to sample an upmarket power breakfast at the Four Seasons hotel on Park Lane, suggesting: “Perhaps now that gen Z is eschewing booze and all-night raves, we’re moving into a hospitality era when the big, posh breakfast may well be the main event.”
The showstopper dish was French toast, “a sublime flavour bomb of vanilla milky-egginess with a perilously thin, crunchy outer surface” – although Grace reckoned such a carb-heavy start to the day was more likely to result in a convalescent snooze than all-day productivity.
Among other dishes, a chicken samosa topped with a fried egg and vermicelli offered “pleasant shades of Malaysian mee goreng” but was “a tad heavy for so early in the morning. The coconut-based chia pudding, on the other hand, is a total delight, even if it’s essentially just fruity frogspawn.”
Grace Dent - 2026-03-01