The Times
Giles Coren generously offered a portmanteau of London restaurants for lunching – one at speed, one more leisurely, and one for feeling “posh”.
Garum is a “higgledy-piggledy broadly Roman restaurant crammed into the mini-Chinatown of Queensway”, with a menu of antipasti, pasta, risotto and vegetables – but no main dishes. The cooking is “avowedly domestic and mostly pretty good” – although Giles advises dodging the “dismal” risotto agli scampi. The standout dish is a rigatoni alla carbonara, “the creation that is the pride of Rome”, served with antique parmesan and two types of pepper: white from Cameroon for aroma and creaminess, black from Indonesia “for a real kick”.
Giles Coren - 2025-05-04
Drinks
Extras
