Evening Standard
David Ellis was pretty impressed by the latest opening from Dominic Hamdy, the “savvy operator” behind three Crispins and Bistro Freddie, which serves what “might be called London Mediterranean” – plus an “incongruous burger” that is the only clue that this is in fact a hotel restaurant, inside London’s third Mason & Frith.
“Liking olive oil is a requirement for liking here”, David reckoned – and he certainly liked most of what he ate, including ricotta-filled tortelli with lemon and courgettes that “smelt of perfect summer lunches spent by the Amalfi sea” followed by brill in a bouillabaisse sauce billed as something for two or three to share, but which would be plenty for four or five. “I would go back for that alone.”
It is a not a “knock-your-socks-off restaurant”, or somewhere that will set the world on fire – “it is not built to do so, the flavours are too familiar, too sweetly soft for that”. But it is perfect for Notting Hill, “somewhere for Saturday afternoons in a haze of summer sun and going with all your mates”.
David Ellis - 2025-07-20The Times
Giles Coren arrived at this new spot beside the Grand Union Canal on foot via the towpath from Paddington – which may sound scenic but was “a mistake”, given that this stretch of the canal is deeply grungy, with a “whiff of Hurricane Katrina” and an “all-pervading fog of skunk smoke” to sadden the heart.
He was almost nonplussed by the venue itself – a “concrete bin” with an “enormous municipal-style open kitchen (more school cafeteria than L’Atelier Robuchon)” – which made the excellent cooking seem all the more surprising: “a roster of gleaming, colourful, well considered, produce-foregrounding platefuls”.
Highlights included “young peas from Mora Farm that were roasted till the skin blistered black and covered with grated smoked ricotta and lemon”, and squid ink tagliolini alle vongole, “the black strands wonderfully chewy, with just a few clams opened in wine with some fresh red chilli and garlic to set off the nuttiness of the fresh pasta”.
Foodwise, the only disappointment was a tiramisu that was “dry, not lush or creamy, with a lot of undrenched sponge”. Somehow, though, you somehow doubt that Giles will return.
Giles Coren - 2025-08-03
