The Guardian
Grace Dent seemed rather surprised to find herself enjoying Giorgio Locatelli’s new spot, created in partnership with “poshish” catering company Searcy’s in the Sainsbury Wing of the National Gallery. Admittedly it was “not a patch” on Giorgio's famous and pricey Locanda Locatelli, which closed earlier this year – but it was pretty, “dashingly handy”, and the food clearly exceeded Grace's expectations.
“The lunch menu is a million times more interesting than the usual museum or gallery scones and sandwich fare," she said. "Here, there is piping hot fritto misto, a choice of five fresh pasta dishes, including a juicy bowl of delightfully pungent red gurnard with thick pappardelle, fresh tomato, almonds and black olives that was nothing short of delicious.
"Someone is actually cooking here, not cynically heating things up for tourists.”
Grace Dent - 2025-08-10