The Guardian
Grace Dent was knocked out by what “may well be my new favourite restaurant… the new, big, generous beating heart of Manchester hospitality” from chef Shaun Moffat, already “toast of the town” for his “swaggeringly elegant but plentiful modern British cooking” at the Edinburgh Castle in Ancoats.
Winsome is “an attractive and lovable room, with a large open kitchen down one side” – “there’s something about the place that makes me want to use it as a canteen, not least out of sheer curiosity as to what Moffat will put on the menu next”.
Grace reckoned his “great cooking… forward-thinking fine dining without any of the faff” combined the best of Fergus Henderson, Mark Hix and the Quality Chop House. “This is Cool Britannia wearing a napkin bib with a side portion of rhubarb jelly and custard for pudding.”
Grace Dent - 2025-05-25
