The team behind Wild Tavern in Chelsea and Wild in Notting Hill have opened their first Japanese venture – Wild Izakaya on Old Jewry Street in the City, fronted by former Koyn and Nobu head chef Satoru Hashimoto.
The izakaya has taken over the former Browns premises opposite Goodman, the steak house opened 16 years ago by Ilya Demichev and George Bukhov-Weinstein, the prolific restaurateurs behind the Wild trio, Pinna and Beast.
The relatively simple food menu is dominated by sushi and sashimi, with the most expensive single item being a dish of rice and braised wagyu at £24. But izakayas are traditionally all about drinking – and here the drinks list is both compendious and, for the ambitious imbiber, potentially hugely expensive.
The list starts with almost 50 sakés, ranging from a “Kaze” Kanpai London craft saké at £55 for a 375ml bottle to the rare Daruma Masamune from Gifu aged for three, five, 10 or 20 years – the latter costing £400 a bottle.
There is also a selection of wines from Japan, along with an interesting selection of bottles made around the world by “globetrotting” Japanese winemakers, including a 2023 Gevry-Chambertin from Burgundy-based Kei Shiogai at £1,000 a bottle.
Topping the list is a bottle of 2022 Domaine de la Romanée Conti, Montrachet Grand Cru at £5,000, which is also available by the Coravin glass at £833 for 125ml – which must make it one of London’s priciest mouthfuls.