An ambitious new restaurant billed as the first open-kitchen chef’s table in Suffolk has opened in Bury St Edmunds, backed by Clove Club and Noble Rot investor Linda Keenan.
Named Bellota – Spanish for acorn, key to the diet of Pata Negra pigs – the 20-cover venture is a collaboration with Spanish-born chef Ruben Aguilar Bel, who has worked at Mugaritz in the Basque country, and his wife Gabriella Fogarasi, a Transylvanian-Hungarian pastry chef who has worked at Murano and the Connaught in London.
Linda, who lives nearby, describes Bellota’s cooking as “modern European” rather than strictly Spanish, and it focuses on local ingredients including fish from the Suffolk coast and vegetables from her own garden – “barring crop failures“. The wines are from England, Spainish and Hungary – but not France: “we’re being unabashedly nationalistic”.
Linda said: “I met Ruben and Gabi when they were working at a local restaurant and was totally knocked out by their food, which was truly world class. I became a loyal customer and was distraught when the restaurant, through no fault of the kitchen, fell on hard times. After that Ruben and I had discussions about a possible collaboration. We shared similar views regarding food, what the hospitality experience should be like, and management philosophy, so when the Bury location became available, I felt there were enough stars in alignment to take the leap.
“I am a foodie and amateur cook myself so am always interested in what happens in the kitchen. I very much enjoy eating at the open kitchen restaurants in London such as Kitchen Table, Behind and Da Terra, to name just a few. There are no restaurants with this format in Suffolk, but with the adventurous population I thought the concept would have traction.
“I like to break down barriers, especially the wall between the chefs and the dinners. Preparing a top class meal is quite a performance which I thought guests would enjoy. The chef’s table concept also offers the opportunity for guests and chefs to interact, which is fun and rewarding for both parties. Eating is in fact a social activity, so the relaxed format of a chef’s table really enhances the conviviality of the dining experience.”
Linda added that Bury St Edmunds has become a culinary destination in the past dozen years, with the success of restaurants such as Lark and Pea Porridge showing that both locals and visitors are receptive to high-quality cuisine and innovative dining experiences.
Bellota offers three tasting menus: Mediodia, 4 courses at £55 a head; Abrazo, 6 courses at £72, and Vuelve, 8 courses at £85. A vegetarian menu is available at 48 hours’ notice, and there is also an Almuerzo à la carte menu of small plates.