The Times
Declaring that “going to a restaurant with one particular dish in mind is a noble approach to eating out”, Jay Rayner set his heart on a rare-in-London plate of Singapore chilli crab at a venue that feels like “a beach shack reimagined for the city”.
First, though, he sampled a selection of “interesting” curtain-raisers that all hit the spot: deep-fried soft-shell crab; garlicky cucumber salad; spring rolls; green beans and ground beef with the “fermented honk” of shrimp paste; and a helping of “delicate and intensely moreish” Singapore noodles.
The famous – and extremely messy – chilli crab lived up to Jay’s high hopes: “a huge platter of semi-broken crab in a thick, red traffic light of a sauce with, on the side, a basket of steamed rice-flour buns, white as snow, soft as clouds, perfectly designed for mopping”. He quickly lost himself in working his way through what he came for – “the perfect contrast between the sweet white meat and the heat of the thickened sauce.”
Jay Rayner - 2026-05-03
