Greater London, Italian Restaurant Guide

“Despite now being part of a rolled-out chain, they have managed to maintain good quality” at these tapas-haunts, whose original branch off Goodge Street was an early pioneer of the capital’s trend to small plates. A minor gripe is of “packed” seating, but most feedback focuses on their “delicious food and well-thought-out wine list”.

“Staff could not be nicer” at this veteran Soho Italian, which originally opened in 1971 but has shifted site twice in its lifetime (most recently in 2021, from nearby Poland Street). “The new venue is in the old style and it’s as good as ever”. Fans value “having a reliable, independent Italian in this part of London” and its “delightful”, personal approach particularly underpins its appeal. It also helps that the cooking is “very authentic” and “reliable” too: “standard dishes from a sensibly short menu but nicely done”.

“For a quick bite” in touristy parts of town, all with a bit of affordable glam thrown in, these “closely packed” Italians with their wide range of Venetian-style Cicchetti have carved a sizeable following: fans say “the small-plates formula works well” and “the whole place buzzes”. Ratings came under more pressure this year, though, with service – generally “swift and charming” – sometimes found “rushed” or “rather random”.

2024 Review: “Family-run Italian” that helps add life to a dull stretch of the Gray’s Inn Road. It specialises in Sicilian cuisine presented by Fabrizio Zafarana, an engagingly “well-informed and enthusiastic” host.

“Despite now being part of a rolled-out chain, they have managed to maintain good quality” at these tapas-haunts, whose original branch off Goodge Street was an early pioneer of the capital’s trend to small plates. A minor gripe is of “packed” seating, but most feedback focuses on their “delicious food and well-thought-out wine list”.

“You never feel cramped or too close to other tables” in the gracious West End flagship branch of Carlo Distefano’s national group of old-school, comfortable Italian restaurants (London was one of the last destinations of a chain nowadays numbering about 20). Culinary results are “consistent” from the “very comprehensive menu” – if there was a gripe this year, it was over the odd let-down on the service front.

“Still a really good location and format” – this Soho ‘tapas haven’ is increasingly forgotten about nowadays, but can still merit a visit. Its Italian/Spanish dishes “aren’t as good as they used to be” but are “solid, and better than many offerings in the area”; and there’s an interesting selection of drinks. Also, “it has a really relaxed style, but with all the vibe of neighbouring Carnaby Street”.

Near the Bank of England, this Italian three-year-old occupies a particularly fine Edwardian banking hall (built in 1902). Had it not opened around the time of the pandemic, it might be better known – “it’s not too noisy for a City restaurant and with good service and a reasonably priced lunch deal”.

“Meals just flow from gorgeous dish to gorgeous dish” at this “comfortable” Sicillian restaurant in a Fitzrovia townhouse, which inspires nothing but praise this year. The menu is a good mix between “creative” and more familiar dishes (“excellent parmigiana and pasta for example”); and it’s all washed down with “beautiful wines”. The golden-hued Moorish-inspired decor verges on “lavish”, with tiled floors and “nice booths”, plus “outside tables that are worth it on a sunny day”.

The Mayfair original of this small group is celebrating its tenth year, with a Belgravia sibling and café-style offshoots in similarly chichi Chelsea and Kensington. It channels a retro ‘dolce vita’ vibe, with an Italian menu that “delivers on the brief if nothing more”. The latest addition is an all-day café, which opened in December 2023 next door to the Dover Street flagship.

“For a quick bite” in touristy parts of town, all with a bit of affordable glam thrown in, these “closely packed” Italians with their wide range of Venetian-style Cicchetti have carved a sizeable following: fans say “the small-plates formula works well” and “the whole place buzzes”. Ratings came under more pressure this year, though, with service – generally “swift and charming” – sometimes found “rushed” or “rather random”.

“Keeping up its standards” – this “sweet” and stylish converted pub near the Royal Opera House operates over two floors. It’s part of the Salt Yard chain, and serves the Spanish and Italian tapas for which the group is known: “good food”, but some feel it’s “expensive” for what it is.

“It is not the cheapest option in town”, but this “always-busy”, “classic” Italian (founded in 1945) is very “well-situated” and “does deliver consistency”; hitting just the right note for a “Central Casting” crowd of St James’s regulars, many of them clad in the expensive pin-striped suits sold in the local gents’ outfitters. “The food is good without being exceptional”; “staff know their clientele and make them feel special” and although the question is raised – “do the tables have to be so close together?” – such “intimate” seating is perfect for the local property and art dealers to gossip over. “It’s pricey for sure… but that’s Jermyn St for you”.