The Sunday Times
Camilla Long stuck her critical claws deep into the London branch of a Manchester-based Greek restaurant that’s “done up like Circe’s knicker drawer”, describing it as a “Polyphemian sex cave opposite the Ritz”. Cue much innuendo: a cocktail was a “long, deep throatful of Apollo’s Essence”; a salad with over-ripe tomatoes was “squishy and slimy, like going down on Medusa”; tuna tartare arrived with a “bit of caviar bukkake on top”.
The gushing menu was comically misspelt – a cocktail called “River Sticks” was compared to “Homer’s legendary poem, Odysseus” – and included iberico ribs (Spanish), steak tartare (French), wagyu anticucho (Peruvian) and Asian-inspired gyoza. “Why make such a big deal of your Greek restaurant if you think your customers won’t like it?”
“If a restaurant’s purpose is to make people feel at home, then there are people who will find its sybaritic raunch reassuring,” she concluded. “But at these prices, with this swagger, the food needs to be excellent. It isn’t.”
Camilla Long - 2026-05-03
